Kos destination info
Kos lies tucked into the Gulf of Kos (the ancient Ceramic Gulf, Turkish Gokova Korfezi) between the Myndus peninsula to the north and the Dorian promontory to the south. The fingers of Turkey reach out to touch the island, enclosing the ancient triangle of trading power that vied with Rhodes to dominate the southwestern Aegean. Kos was probably not an important partner in the power hexapolis, and not until the city of Kos was founded in 366 BC on the present site of the modern capital did it prosper and become an important maritime power. Today the harbour is probably much as it was when Kos was a powerful city.
The island has always been much praised for its fertility. A mountain ridge runs its length (the summit attains a height of 845m (2788ft) near the NE end) and on the eastern side it is precipitous and barren. It is the western side which is well-watered and fertile. Sandy beaches fringe the cultivated plain which produces fine vegetables, melons and grapes. The Kos variety of lettuce was introduced to England from here. Perhaps the mulberry trees on which the silkworm feeds also covered these slopes in antiquity. Kos was once famous for its silk and in particular the Coae vestes, the diaphanous flowing silk dresses prized by Roman women - sadly no longer made or worn.
Ancient Kos had many famous citizens but above them all stands Hippocrates, the great physician of antiquity and the father of modern medicine. We know little of the old healing methods but we do know that for the Hippocratic school the site of the sanatorium was as important as the methods. (The tranquillity of Epidavros, of mysteries earlier than Hippocrates, is proof enough.) The Aesculapion (Ascelepion) is just outside Kos town and should not be missed. The three terraces lie in a peaceful setting near to medicinal springs on a limestone hill overlooking the Gulf of Kos. The Italians rebuilt much of the Aesculapion to the original plan without destroying the calm of the place. It is the appropriate place to remember the Hippocratic Oath:
ºshall look upon him who shall have taught me this art even as one of my parents. I will share my substance with him and relieve his need should he be in want. His children shall be as my own kin, and I will teach them the art, if they so wish, without fee or covenant...The regimen I adopt shall be for the benefit of my patients according to my ability and judgement, and not for their hurt or for any wrong. I will give no deadly drug to any, though it be asked of me, nor will I counsel such, and especially I will not aid a woman to procure abortion. Whatsoever house I enter, there I will go for die benefit of die sick refraining from all wrong doing or corruption, and especially from any act of seduction, of male or female, of bond or free. Whatever things I may hear concerning the life of men during my attendance of the sick, or even apart from them, which should be kept secret, I will keep my own counsel upon, deeming such things as sacred secrets.
Recently more tourists have been discovering Kos and several large hotels have been built around the sandy beaches. In many ways it resembles Rhodes -the green slopes, large hotels, the bustling harbour under the castle of the Knights - and like Rhodes it wants to have an ever larger slice of the tourist pie whatever the cost.
Mooring
Go stern or bows-to the quay on the Å side. The bottom is mud - excellent holding.
Note The harbour is very crowded in the summer and it can be difficult to find a berth. Unless you specifically want to be here it is better to go to the marina.
Shelter With a strong meltemi there is often an uncomfortable surge in the harbour although shelteron the Å side is good. With gales from the N-NE the harbour is close to untenable.
Authorities A port of entry: port police, customs, health and immigration authorities.
Anchorage Large yachts can anchor off the beach S of the entrance in settled weather. Care is needed to keep clear of the approaches to the hydrofoil quay.
Facilities
Water On the quay. The water man usually does the rounds twice a day. Fuel In the town. A mini-tanker can deliver to the quay. Repairs Some mechanical repairs. Hardware shops and some chandlery available.
Provisions Excellent shopping for provisions and agood market just up from the harbour. Ice from afactory on the outskirts of town. Eating out Good tavernas in the town.
Other PO. OTE. Banks. ATMs. Greek gas and Camping Gaz. Hire cars, motorbikes and bicycles.Intermittent bus service to the other villages on the islands. Daily ferries to Piraeus and Rhodes and to Bodrum in Turkey. European and internal flights to Kos airport.
General
Kos is a likable mixture of medieval Prankish and Turkish architecture with a few contributions of Italian monumental. Oleander, bougainvillea, jasmine and hibiscus grow in profusion and classical remains from the era of Greek prosperity are used in novel ways - a sarcophagus forms the basin for a fountain, fragments of ancient marble prop up the branch of a tree, part of a marble column forms the base for a flower box, huge hewn blocks of stone line the path in a park. The fort and the adjacent park, shaded by old spreading plane trees (one of which is reputed to be that which Hippocrates taught under, although it is only 400-500 years old - a nice tradition anyway) and cooled by the meltemi, is quite one of the most pleasant places to be on a hot summer's day. A small museum in the town houses Greek and Roman finds from the excavations.
In recent years Kos has attracted growing numbers of tourists and it seems as if the city of Kos is set to revive ancient rivalries and challenge Rhodes for the valuable annual cargo of bodies craving sun and sand. The town has changed to accommodate this new trade and though I think it retains much of its character, you may, like some others, think it has become 'all fast food and discos'.